Shop Tianguis in La Penita de Jaltemba

Sep 202011

Tianguis Outdoor Market in La Penita

For the first time, we had the pleasure of visiting ‘tianguis’ in La Penita de Jaltemba, and what a pleasure it was! Tianguis (pronounced tee-ang-gees) is Mexico’s version of a swap meet or flea market but offers more than just practical items, including fun things like bright green river turtles, colorful fish and birds, genuine and costume jewelry, new clothes and shoes, Mexican arts and crafts, and of course, all kinds of fresh foods and snacks. After all, it wouldn’t be Mexico without the tasty treats!

Practical La Penita

La Penita de Jaltemba is a rustic beach town along the Riviera Nayarit, a recently designated tourist region that consists of beautiful undeveloped beaches and charming beach towns, framed by tropical rainforests and the rolling hillsides of the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains. Just about 30 minutes north of Sayulita and 30 minutes south of Chacala, La Penita (as it is called) rests along peaceful Bahia Jaltemba Bay on the Pacific Ocean and is one of many beautiful beach coves in the region.

Being an authentic Mexican town that provides practical services for its residents and neighboring communities, it’s less of a traditional tourist town with all the bells and whistles but still welcomes and accommodates travelers from all over the world, and the Tianguis in La Penita is well known. As the largest recurring outdoor market in the Riviera Nayarit, it’s the most popular open-air market in the region drawing locals and vacationers from the south beyond Nuevo Vallarta and the north beyond San Blas.

Tianguis Market Details

Along with the warm, friendly people of La Penita, the tianguis is an enjoyable few hours of shopping, socializing, snacking, and listening to live music. Running from 7:00 or 8:00 a.m.-ish to 1:00 or 2:00 p.m.-ish, the entrance of the market starts at the lovely, tree-lined town square (zócalo) extending south and paralleling the beach. Vendors line both sides of the long cobblestone street with colorful umbrellas and tarps, offering much-welcome shade from the sunshine, while smiling at visitors who admire their wares.

With high season (November through April) right around the corner, the vendors are gearing up to provide all kinds of special traditional items, such as authentic handmade pottery, woven baskets and hammocks, wool rugs and blankets, leather and beaded items, painted woodcrafts, hand-embroidered clothes and purses, Huichol Indian art, organic Nayarit coffee, and even the basics like eyeglasses and sunglasses, vitamins and herbs, pots and pans, glassware, and cleaning supplies.

During the winter months, there are twice as many items available, so La Penita Tianguis is a great place to shop!

Shop at the La Penita Tianguis every Thursday morning in La Penita de Jaltemba along the beautiful Riviera Nayarit, Mexico.

Five Great Snorkeling Beaches in Nayarit

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Sep 142011

Nayarit Snorkeling Beaches

The Riviera Nayarit may be a relatively undeveloped tourist region, but it is booming with tropical nature and exotic wildlife and is starting to catch on as a popular travel place. Located along the Pacific Ocean, the Mexican state of Nayarit is said to have some of the best snorkeling in western Mexico according to History.com.

Although not yet well studied, the Mexican Pacific coral reef along the Nayarit coastline draws abundant sea life. The ocean water in this region is relatively warm and rich in nutrients, so large varieties of tropical fish flourish here, including manta rays, eagle rays, moray eels, puffer fish, needlefish, king angelfish, jack fish, damselfish, Moorish Idol fish, starfish, seahorses, octopuses, sea turtles, dolphins, whales, and more.

The coral reefs of southern Nayarit (Riviera Nayarit) that attract these fish are all one type of reef: narrow fringing reefs. These fringing reefs are dense, well-developed frameworks, measuring up to nearly 20-feet (6-meters) thick. Fringing reefs are the most common reef type (the other types are barrier and atoll) and are found near the shore in shallow water. This is great for snorkelers, since the fish swim closer to the shore.

These conditions make for some pretty terrific snorkeling. While there are many beautiful beaches along Bahi Banderas Bay, Bahia Jaltemba Bay, and Bahia Matanchen Bay of the Riviera Nayarit, here are five wonderful snorkeling beaches with fascinating underwater worlds.

Playa El Anclote

El Anclote Beach is a lovely beach with rock jetties near Punta de Mita. Fabulous snorkeling tours to The Marietas Islands Marine Reserve with its unusual reef formations, such as with lava tubes and caves, are available from this beach.

Playa Chacalilla

Chacalilla Beach is a small beach with clear, aqua-colored water just north of Chacala.

Playa Los Ayala

Los Ayala Beach is a fairly long beach with clear, aqua-colored water just south of Rincon de Guayabitos in Bahia Jaltemba Bay.

Playa de los Muertos

Los Muertos Beach is protected by large rocks on both sides and has calm, clear water just south of Sayulita. Beyond the rocks to the south is the tiny beach of Punta Las Cargadas near four rock islands, which is also a good snorkeling spot.

Playa Gemelas

Gemelas Beach is a pair of twin beaches south of Bucerias and Nuevo Vallarta with clear water and rock formations near Los Arcos National Marine Park.

Discover the vibrant underwater world of Mexico’s Pacific Ocean at great snorkeling beaches in charming Mexican towns along the Riviera Nayarit.

Breathtaking Sunset Sailing Trip from Sayulita

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Sep 072011

Sayulita Sunset Sailing Cruise

Pulling into the Marina Riviera Nayarit in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, just 15 minutes from Sayulita, we walk up the first dock on the right to a 50-foot schooner – more accurately, a traditional trimaran – that reminds of days of old when pirates would sail the seven seas. It’s as long as its sails are tall and has a cabin (main salon) lined with rare Rangoon teak wood panels, uncustomary on those modern fiberglass boats.

Two steps lead up to the boat and a hand reaches out to help us aboard. Looking up, I’m greeted politely by a thin, gray-haired man with a strong handshake, welcoming us to his pride and joy: Sayula 1, the first boat ever to operate out of Sayulita. He’s a bit rough around the edges, and I imagine him wearing a black patch over one eye with a yellow sash around his waist and a long sword at his side. Could he be a pirate? This man of the sea is an original with 25 years’ experience sailing the ocean blue.

Sail Away

Once we’re all aboard, a low rumble breaks the sound of rolling waters, and we begin to glide back from the dock as if floating on air. Passing more contemporary boats in the marina on our way out to sea, feeling the soft sway of the boat and smelling the fresh ocean air, we sense the history of this sailing trimaran and realize we have stepped aboard a legend. Before long, the marina is behind us and the wide Pacific Ocean draws us in.

Port side (on the left), we begin to pass colorful buildings of all shapes and sizes in the towns that line Bahia Banderas Bay on the Pacific coast of Riviera Nayarit; behind us, San Pancho, then Sayulita, Bucerias, Nuevo Vallarta, Puerto Vallarta and finally the open sea. Starboard side (on the right), we ride near the land, passing Punta de Mita in the distance and the rolling hills of tropical rainforests in varying shades of green peppered by rock barriers that extend into the ocean.

Breathtaking.

Sailing On…

The land begins to fade in the distance as the ocean grows wider and the rolling waves draw us out. With the wind in our sails, we follow the distant shadow of the land and continue starboard when rounding a bend north of La Cruz, a lovely beach cove opens up to a small gold beach where seagulls and pelicans perch on rock beds welcoming us. Anchoring the boat a short distance from shore, we swim to the beach and relax awhile having this slice of heaven all to ourselves.

If only we could stay here forever, but alas, we are hailed back to deck and climb aboard to enjoy some snacks, drinks, music, and friendly conversation. We float for a while and then head back in the direction we came, spotting a dead sea turtle along the way: a tragic loss to nature. We mutter sadly about her death and are quiet for a time as we journey back to the marina. The ride is calm and smooth as the sun sets on a lovely Nayarit day. Hues of red, orange, yellow, and purple fade into gray as we say good-bye – for now.

Take a boat tour aboard a traditional trimaran for a Sunset Sailing Trip from Sayulita, Mexico, in the Riviera Nayarit.

Saving Sea Turtles in Trouble

San Pancho 1 Response »

Sep 032011

- By Desiree Bilon

Endangered Sea Turtles

Although Olive Ridley might sound like the name of a children’s storybook character, it is the actually the name of a species of sea turtle in trouble. The Olive Ridley takes it name from the grey-green color of its heart-shaped shell. Even though this is one of the most abundant species of turtles in the world, it is still considered an endangered species on the Pacific coast of Mexico where the Riviera Nayarit is located.

The second smallest of the sea turtles, after the Kemp Ridley, Olive Ridleys weigh between 75-100 pounds (34 – 45 kg) and reach 2-2 ½ feet (0.6-0.75 m) in length. Mostly omnivorous, this turtle lives off a diet of crabs, jellyfish, lobster, and shrimp. Commercial fishing, loss of nesting habitat, and climate change are among the human-induced threats to turtle population levels worldwide.

The Olive Ridley has a number of natural predators. In San Francisco (San Pancho), a small town one hour north of Puerto Vallarta on Mexico’s Pacific coast, the domestic dog is the largest predator, digging up turtle eggs. Human poachers are also known to gather turtle eggs while the female is depositing them into the sand, only later to resell the eggs – considered an aphrodisiac in Mexico. If the eggs do remain in the sand, fly larvae pose the greatest threat to the nests. Once the turtles have hatched, ghost crabs become the new predators, going after the baby turtles and tucking them into their sand holes.

Sea Turtle Rescue

Frank Smith, a US expatriate, who has dedicated his life to turtle conservation, founded the Grupo Ecológico de la Costa Verde, A.C. in 1992. The “group” built the first marine nursery in San Pancho, Nayarit to help increase turtle numbers. Sea turtles, even though diminished in population, play a key role in oceanic ecosystems. They are vital in maintaining healthy sea grass beds and coral reef, which provide habitat for other marine life; help balance marine food webs; and help facilitate nutrient cycling from water to land.

Frank stays up every night until 4:00 am and then sleeps until noon. From the end of June until mid-November, he is out collecting nests. Two teams, 3-4 people each, take turns searching for nests. One team goes from 10:00 pm until 1:00 am and the next team goes from 1:00 am to 6:00 am. They look for turtle tracks in the sand, approximately 2-feet wide (about 0.6 meters wide), and then follow them up to the nest sites. Once the female has finished depositing her eggs, and leaves, the team retrieves the nest.

Sea Turtle Nurseries

Two types of nurseries are used in San Pancho. One is the beach nursery where eggs are buried into a fenced off area in the sand, simulating a more natural habitat. The second is the “box” nursery. By replicating commercial hatcheries, carefully selected sand is placed into a styrofoam box and kept in a semi-heated room. The eggs are placed into the sand in neat rows, as opposed to a bunch of eggs dumped into a hole. Survival rates in the box nursery are successful, around 89%.

Due to lack of space, not all the eggs can be kept in the box nursery at the same time and some have to stay on the beach. While susceptible to attacks from dogs and fly larva in the egg stage, artificial lights pose a problem for the new hatchlings, born after 45 days.

“When they emerge to the surface, they look for the bio and chemical luminescence of the waves to guide them – it’s like a flash of lightening for them. Artificial light behind the beach attracts the newborn turtles and they head up the beach in the wrong direction. When the sun comes up it kills them within an hour.” Frank explains and urges people on the beachfront to turn their lights off.

You might see Frank on the beach, driving his dune buggy along the sand at sunset with passengers, the baby turtles.

“We only release 60 hatchlings in one spot. Then we go 400 feet down the beach and release another 60. We don’t release any in the same spot for a week to avoid fish predators,” Frank assures me.

Over the past 20 years, with the help of Grupo Ecológico, the Olive Ridley population in San Pancho has increased from 200 to 1,170 nests.

For more information about visiting or volunteering, visit Grupo Ecológico de la Costa Verde, A.C.

Join the special residents of San Pancho on their mission for Saving Sea Turtles in Trouble in the Riviera Nayarit, Mexico.

[Photos courtesy of Grupo Ecológico de la Costa Verde.]

A Fun Journey to San Blas in the Riviera Nayarit

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Aug 312011

On the Road

As we are currently living in Lo de Marcos in the Riviera Nayarit in Mexico, it was not a very long drive on the 200 road to San Blas. We had not driven through San Blas on our way to Mexico from Colorado, and since we had our friend Conor visiting, we thought it would make for a fun trip with a bit more authentic Mexican flavor of the Riviera Nayarit in comparison to some larger and well known cities.

We figured that it would take us about two hours to get to San Blas from Lo de Marcos. We took off around 9:00 P.V. time, so as soon as we got to La Penita, it was only 8:15! The hour difference in the time zones starts at Lo de Marcos, going south towards Puerta Vallarta. (We are on PV time). So, we were off to an early start! lol!

Just past Las Varas is a small town called Zacualpan that had a really interesting saying on a rock with a large rock painting above it as you entered the small town. It was about lovers, of course! Mexico is so very passionate about love and life! We went into town and down to the town square. Every pueblo has a town square. And in the town square is where you will find life in the town.

I started talking to a gentleman about which way to San Blas, and he started to tell us (in Spanish) that the road ahead was severely flooded, and it would be two to three hours before we could cross. Then he saw the jeep, and said we could probably make it. I wanted to see the flood and get some pictures, and thought that we could simply turn around if we had to, and I ended up getting this video instead. I’m not the best at videos yet, as you will surmise, but you will see what the summer rains can do. The flooded pastures were literally turned into a raging river. It was a bit scary at one point where the water really started slamming higher on the truck in front of us. Yikes!

So, Leaving Zacualpan and coming into San Isidro was an adventure for sure! We stopped after that and bought some very delicious banana bread and a fried coconut ball and away we went onward to San Blas. There is nothing better than fried coconut sugar!

Pueblos of the Riviera Nayarit

As we came over the mountain just before the San Blas valley, we were able to see the valley with the orchards and other crops, along with the beautiful coast line below. Driving is a fun way to get around Mexico. There are so many small towns (pueblos) to see and interesting culture to absorb. Some of the streets get over grown due to the heavy rain season or flooded. Everything grows so fast here in Mexico.

These small pueblos have some of the same qualities; the small stores and shops with cobblestone streets. Some of the folks are cooking whole chickens and carne for tacos outside on their grills for lunch. It feels very friendly and inviting. Families… lots of family are working together and supporting each other. It is their culture to take care of each other, and to live together. The parents take care of the children, and then the children take care of their parents. There are mostly family run and owned businesses in the smaller communities.

Some small towns are geared more for fixing and repairing; buying your work supplies such as La Penita. Other pueblos are for vacationers, that are filled with restaurants and tour companies, and places to stay like Sayulita, which is huge for weddings and fun music and is also known for its “hippie” energies, while Chacala feels a little more calm and private. Each of the pueblos has an authentic Mexican flavor of their own, making it easy to find the right pueblo for your vacation or retirement that will be sure to meet your needs.

Tacos and Swimming at the Beach

As we drove into San Blas, the road split. It seemed like a one-way street, and so we went with the flow and veered right. The road ended up doing a tear shape loop and came out on the other side of the split when we left.

San Blas is a pleasant looking pueblo with a large town square. There is a large cathedral church there with shops, carts and restaurants along the perimeters. There are a lot of small art galleries and different clothes and jewelry shops. Conor found a really cool Mayan vortex type of tee shirt, and I purchased a really cool pair of beaded yellow daisy earrings. We walked around town for a while. The market was busy and there were several vendors selling their goods like fresh shrimp and fish.

We decided that it was time for lunch, and I found a carne taco vendor cart along side of the town square. The tacos were very tender and yummy!!! We all were quite happy with filled bellies.

We really wanted to get to the beach, so when we were headed out, we stopped at a restaurant on the beach and had a margarita with some chips and salsa, and watched the surfers surf some good-sized waves. We decided to continue on our journey and ended up turning off of the road onto a dirt road that had restaurant after restaurant alongside the beach with covered parking under palapas. I drove to the end of the restaurants that were open and we came to this beautiful spot with big waves to swim in. The beach was flat and the water was warm. We had a blast.

Then, the ice cream man came by and we all got some delicious ice cream afterwards! There was also a mother Mary sighting in this small cove, and so erected upon the rock was Guadalupe.

We are blessed on so many levels indeed to live and breathe in the Riviera Nayarit, Mexico.

Celebrate Mexican Independence in Mexico

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Aug 252011

Celebrating Mexican Independence

September is a special month in Mexico – el Mes de la Patria (month of the homeland) – because this year, Mexicans celebrate 201 years of independence from Spanish rule and 101 years since the Mexican Revolution (November 20^th, 1910). The entire month consists of festivities, although the official Día de la Independencia (Independence Day) is September 16^th with official celebrations begining the evening of September 15^th.

Starting in early September, the country’s cities and towns are adorned with Mexican flags and decorations in colors of green (symbolizing independence), white (symbolizing religion), and red (symbolizing union). Restaurants serve traditional Mexican specialties (antojitos), such as Chiles en Nogada, ponche, and more.

On the eve of September 15^th, across the country, Mexicans gather in town squares (zócalos) dressed in green, white, and red – colors of the Mexican flag – indigenous costume, or traditional Mexican garb: men as Charros and women as China Poblanas.

They await the official commencement of the holiday, indulging in cervezas, tequila, and Mexican food, which begins with a patriotic speech given by a local official, serving as a reenactment of Father Hidalgo’s El Grito de Dolores (The Cry of Dolores), also known as El Grito de la Independencia (Cry of Independence), addressing his followers in Dolores, Guanajuato to take action against Spain.

Brief History of Mexican Independence

Before present-day Mexico existed, pre-Columbian Mesoamerica was inhabited by Aztecs and other Indian civilizations until Spanish invaders conquered their land in 1521 and renamed it New Spain. After 300 years of Spanish oppression and tyranny, and 10 years of revolutionary war, Mexico’s hard-earned independence was finally won on September 16, 1821.

On September 16^th, 1810, a Catholic priest, Father Miguel Hidalgo, gave his famous “grito” (or shout), which started a revolt lasting one year, ultimately leading to the Mexican War of Independence, the most important observed national holiday in Mexico. Unfortunately, Hidalgo was executed for his actions.

Another priest, Father Jose Maria Morelos, continued the fight for independence and helped to establish the first proclamation of separation from Spanish rule, granting equal rights to all Mexicans on November 1813, with the Solemn Act of the Declaration of Independence of Northern America, but was also executed. Today, Hidalgo is considered the father of Mexico and Morelos, a national hero.

At long last, in September 1821, the final document – the Declaration of Independence of the Mexican Empire – pronouncing Mexico as an independent nation and was signed in Mexica (a former part of the Aztec empire). The country’s present name originated from the Aztec Nahuatl word Mēxihco, which evolved into México in Spanish. Officially named the United Mexican States (Estados Unidos Mexicanos), this beautiful country honors its independence on September 16^th each year.

Independence Day Festivities

As with most things Mexican, this occasion is celebrated with gusto. Each year, festivities begin the evening of September 15^th at 11:00 p.m. in zócalos (town squares) across the country. A local representative rings a symbolic liberty bell and gives a patriotic speech ending in a shout for Mexicans to unite, a reenactment of Father Hidalgo’s “grito,” to which the crowd responds: “Viva Mexico” and “Viva la independencia!” Fireworks and patriotic music fill the air as they sing their national anthem.

On September 16^th, the official Independence Day, merriment continues with parades, carnivals, rodeos, bullfights, folk dances, mariachi music, and more traditional Mexican food and drinks. In the Riviera Nayarit, each of the small towns will celebrate in their zócalos with their own unique flair. If you’ll be vacationing in Mexico on Mexican Independence Day, the holiday offers a festive occasion to honor national values that Mexico – and much of the world – holds in high regard: liberty and unity. ¡Viva la libertad! (Long live freedom!)

Note: Contrary to popular belief, Cinco de Mayo (May 5^th) is not Mexican Independence Day, but there is a connection between the holidays. While Mexican Independence Day celebrates the country’s freedom from Spanish rule on September 16^th, Cinco de Mayo celebrates Mexico’s national unity as an autonomous country after preventing a subsequent invasion by France in 1862. Since this event occurred at Fuerte de Loreto in Puebla, Mexico, it is known as The Battle of Puebla.

Join us in Celebrating Mexican Independence Day in one of the many delightful towns along the Riviera Nayarit, Mexico.

Eye View on Mexican Culture

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Aug 232011

A Foreigner’s Eye View on Mexican Culture

While recently taking leave from Jaltemba Bay in the Riviera Nayarit for a visit to the USA after a long absence, some interesting revelations came to light about our beloved Mexico. It never ceases to amaze how similar and yet so different American and Mexican cultures can be. Both countries share the same continent and enjoy similar establishments, such as restaurants, shopping, services, even entertainment activities and cultural attractions, but both with their own distinctive flair.

Given the negative travel warnings issued over the last few years about Mexico travel, we’d like to share some positive observations about life in Mexico. Why not share some of your positive experiences with us too?

Slower Pace of Life

One of our favorites, an easygoing pace of life is a major difference between America and Mexico. People move to a much slower clip in Mexico, both socially and professionally, which is a refreshing change for visitors – although sometimes frustrating when trying to meet deadlines – especially those preferring an escape from the pressures of daily life for a relaxing vacation or a retirement home.

Indirect Communication

Another endearing part of the easygoing Mexican lifestyle is their friendly, cheerful, casual communication style. In Mexico, talking is an art (Spanish is, after all, a romance language) and since Mexicans like people who enjoy their country, they want to speak with them. Talking in circles is not uncommon since they don’t quickly get to the point, but be patient, since they usually, eventually do.

Can-Do Attitude

Mexicans really are Mexi-can-s. In Mexico, if something is broken, they will try to repair it and 90% of the time, they can. As with many things, they put their heart and soul into it because they’re proud of their work; need to earn income; and like to make people happy. Even if these resourceful people can’t find a replacement part, they may manufacture it using the original part as a pattern.

Punctuality & Attendance

While Mexicans are not generally known for being on time, some are punctual. More frequently, they’ll schedule appointments and not arrive or agree to go somewhere and not attend. They will say “yes” even if uncertain but will rarely call to cancel or reschedule, since this is considered rude. Later, when addressing the issue, they commonly offer the sincerest apologies for their absence.

These are only a few of the obvious differences in Mexican culture. While foreigners are often bewildered by their customs and norms, their ways are ingrained in their culture and are logical to them. The driving motivation for much of their behavior is their firm belief in courteousness and obedience. Mexico is still a hierarchical society based on centuries of Spanish rule when to be anything other than courteous and obedient could yield serious consequences.

Accepting the differences while vacationing or living in Mexico can make all the difference!

Get a foreign Eye View on Mexico from Jaltemba Bay in the Riviera Nayarit.

Mexcaltitan Island

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Aug 172011

Legend of Mexcaltitán Island

Mexico exists in large part due to the Aztec civilization, and the Mexican state of Nayarit is Aztec country. Even the great Maya of the Yucatan Peninsula were invaded by Aztec predecessors. Long before the “Riviera Nayarit” was considered a tourist destination, it was part of the influential Aztec empire. Credited for naming the country of Mexico, the Aztecs also authored the crest in the center of the Mexican flag, which became the Mexican National Emblem.

The image of the emblem comes from the Aztec legend, which identifies their new settlement as the place where a heron would be seen sitting on top of a cactus in the center of a lake capturing a snake in its beak. On their pilgrimage from the island of Mexcaltitán in 1091 – considered the mythical Aztlán and birthplace of the Mexican identity – they searched for this new land, witnessing the snake-capturing heron in the region now known as Mexico City, and built Tenochtitlán in 1325, a significant site of ancient Aztec ruins today.

Arising out of this legend, historians believe the mythical name of the island, “Aztlán,” means “land of the herons” in the Aztec Nahuatl language, and its formal name “Mexcaltitán” derived from the Nahuatl “Metztli,” their moon goddess, which means “in the moon’s house.” While the island may have multiple names, they do know the Aztecs eventually referred to themselves as the Mexicas after settling in the new region and calling it “Mexica,” which stems from the island name and later evolved into “Mexico.”

Tourist Attractions

Mexcaltitán’s historical significance makes it a truly magical place today. After receiving Historical Monument status in 1986, the island was designated by the Mexican government as a Pueblo Magico (magic town). The Pueblos Magicos (magic towns) program began in 2001 to support the preservation of valuable historical areas which influenced Mexican culture and tradition. With about 40 Pueblos Magicos, it has increased tourism and income to towns that model Mexican culture, history, and architecture.

Built in pre-Columbian Mesoamerica by the Aztecs, this small island is only 400 meters (1,300 feet) in diameter, has no cars, and can be easily traversed by foot within an hour or two. The island is accessible only by boat and is a 20-minute ride from La Batanga pier on the mainland near San Blas. During rainy season, September through November, the roads are normally under water, making the only way around town by boat and earning it the nickname: “The Mexican Venice” (La Venecia Mexicana).

Surrounded by wetlands and endangered mangroves, conditions are ideal for shrimp fishing, the primary livelihood of island residents. Mangrove marshes are natural shrimp habitats and also provide material to construct levees and make barcinas (special bags) for drying shrimp, the latter consisting of manta cloth and palm leaves. Travelers who enjoy eating shrimp will find a variety of regional specialties with fresh shrimp, such as zarandeado, tamales, paté, and aguachiles (spicy lime shrimp). It is also the place where dried, crunchy shrimp or “cockroach shrimp” were created, a delicious snack served with chilled cerveza (beer).

For such a small island, its rich history offers significant cultural attractions. Dotting the natural landscape of this picturesque little island are traditional tile-roofed buildings and small unnamed stores that residents identify by memory. Central to the island is the town square with a church and museum, Museo del Origen (Museum of Origin) which contains artifacts of Mesoamerican history and Aztec culture, including an archaeological stone engraving with that meaningful image of the heron capturing a snake, without which, Mexico may not be known as the cultural treasure it is today.

The island of Mexcaltitan is one of various tourist attractions worth visiting near the beach town of San Blas in the Riviera Nayarit, Mexico.

Playa Las Tortugas

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Aug 112011

Play at Playa Las Tortugas

Protecting endangered sea turtles is an important part of Mexico’s various nature conservation programs. In the township of Otates, southwest of San Blas and northwest of Chacala, lies a glistening gold beach in the Riviera Nayarit called Playa Las Tortugas (Beach of Turtles). Named for the sea turtles that nest here, this secluded beach extends across miles of pristine Pacific coastline bordered by hundreds of immense coconut palms on a working coconut plantation.

Although it’s not easy to find, it’s well worth the trip. Heading northwest beyond the charming beach town of Chacala, Playa Las Tortugas is about a one-and-a-half hour drive from Bahia Jaltemba Bay which includes a 30-minute drive along a rocky dirt road that winds through the lush tropical countryside. There are only a few road signs spread wide apart, so just when uncertainty kicks in, “Ah ha!” Another sign points in the right direction.

Trusting the road and bouncing through rural Nayarit unveils this secluded beach, tucked away in a remote location – one of the reasons why it’s worth the visit. There are virtually no people; the beach is empty and peaceful; and there are no vendor stands or shops. If you plan to stay a while, bring plenty of drinks and snacks. One thing you will find is a small community of brightly colored villas for vacation rentals or retirement homes surrounded by lush tropical gardens at the end of the road.

On the villa grounds at Playa Las Tortugas is a turtle rescue sanctuary for protecting the offspring of endangered sea turtles that nest on the golden sand. Supported by donations and volunteers who scout the beaches looking for the turtles’ shallow nests, they save the eggs; bring them to the sanctuary for incubation; and then release ready young hatchlings into the ocean. Visitors are welcome to observe and learn about sea turtles, and participate in turtle releases – a wonderful experience!

What else can you do at Playa Las Tortugas? Plenty. Besides swimming, sunbathing, and relaxing, this beach happens to be a secret spot for surfing and boogie boarding for its long, intense waves. Other popular vacation activities include kayaking along the beach and canoeing through the coconut palm-lined estuary. Surrounding tropical rainforests, marshes, and mangroves are natural habitats for hundreds of native and migratory birds making this an ideal spot for birding and bird watching.

Enjoy a true escape to Playa Las Tortugas northwest of Chacala and southwest of San Blas in the Riviera Nayarit, Mexico.

La Penita Vacation

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Aug 092011

A La Penita Vacation with Ghosts

- By Susan J. Cobb

La Penita Hilltop Ocean View

La Penita de Jaltemba is a charming beach town but not in the touristy sense. Its Pacific Ocean edge is marked by moss covered, wave-battered remains of large houses, victims of Hurricane Kenna , which in 2002, swept away a way of life, along with bricks and mortar. What remains are ghosts: a pair of seahorses atop two pedestals mark the entrance to what was once the malecon, a seaside walkway that residents are assured will be rebuilt “someday.” There is one, and only one, restaurant directly on the beach. The bright parasols of Las Brisas draw locals and tourists on Thursday morning market days. The food is good and they stay.

To walk south along this beach requires climbing up and over the ruins of spacious patios, skirting the footings of what were once walled gardens. Sand-smoothed fragments of tile, stone, and glass provide materials for local mixed media artists. Photographs are best taken at sunset, when light and shadow lend charm and intrigue to what may look harsh and shabby at midday. This is “the real Mexico,” travelers say. The boats drawn up on shore are not for excursions but for local fishermen.

La Penita Hilltop View North

To walk north on the beach is to end up in a place of more ghosts. El panteon viejo, the old graveyard, melts down to the shallow beach at the north end of town. Crypts and stones tilt at odd angles. What secrets are hidden in the sand? The graveyard sits at the foot of a cuesta, an outcropping of black lava rock, a solid base to four or five elegant vacation homes entrenched high above, escaping the waves but not escaping the ghosts. The inn at Casa de los Amigos welcomes paying corporeal guests. Could there be a better place to read a mystery novel or begin writing one?

On the north side there stretches at least 7 kilometers (4 miles) of unobstructed palm-fringed, golden sand beach. At the end, hard up against the base of el cocodrilo, the snout-nosed landmass that crouches at the northern end of Bahia Jaltemba Bay, is Boca de Naranjo. Here there are more ghosts. The frayed and sun-bleached remains of a dozen or so beach palapa restaurants scatter this remote section of beach. Once a nice place to sit for hours, drinking Pacifico beer and watching whales pirouette and play off shore, a development company evicted the restaurants with plans to build a resort there – someday.

Rincon de Guayabitos Ocean View

If you go by foot, take water, a hat, and sunscreen, since you can easily lose time when ghosts are involved. My teenaged nephew found that out several years ago. His Sunday morning excursion from our home in Rincon de Guayabitos (I’ll-be-back-in-an-hour-or-so-Aunt-Susan) turned into a rite of passage. Was it ghosts that drew him on and on, enticing him to hike all the way to the base of el cocodrilo? He returned late in the afternoon, sunburned and dehydrated, but as he confided later, with a new perspective on life. Going and coming he had contemplated the ghosts of La Penita.

Things here today can vanish with a breaking wave. Nothing lasts forever except the memories. Instead of returning to college the next semester, my nephew joined a carnival and traveled through the States for two years, living “full out,” gathering memories that would last a lifetime. Back into his studies now, he still counts that day on Bahia Jaltemba Bay as a pivotal time. Walking with ghosts can sometimes bring the living to life.

For a unique experience, take a La Penita Vacation on the reminiscent shores of Bahia Jaltemba Bay in the Riviera Nayarit, Mexico.

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